Friday, August 28, 2009

I got you behind

This past week has been a bit of a whirlwind. On tuesday afternoon all of the K3 trainees met in Takeo for a "seminar day" during which we learned our final site assignments. The Peace Corps staff made a huge outline of Cambodia with chalk and little rocks and placed flags all throughout. We were each given an envelope, one by one, with out permanent placement and asked to stand by our flag. It was really kind of cool to see everyone scattered through our miniature version of Cambodia. I will be heading to a district town in the north of Battambang province.

Wednesay we headed to Phnom Penh (where I am currently) for our "counterpart conference" where we met the Cambodian counterpart we will likely be working with for the next two years. My counterpart is an easily amused man in his late 30s who worked with the K1 volunteer I will be reaplacing. I made up my ming that I will like working with him when he informed me, during a session on building fruitfull counterpart relationships, that if I was angry or sad I could tell him...but if I cried he would laugh at me. I promptly informed him that that was fine, but I would also laugh at him if he cried. At this point one of the other Khmer teachers from my province informed me that "men do not cry. they go to the restaurant and drink two beers." So guys, if you are ever feeling down, that's the cure. Two beers in a restaurant. Later on that same day my counterpart asked me if I was going to stand up and present to the group what we had been discussing. I said no, as I will rarely speak in front of a large group voluntarily. He laughed and replied with "It's ok, I got you behind." It is my new favorite Khmer translation of American slang, but at any rate; I am glad my co-teacher "has my back."

Random story purely for the readers enjoyment:

During language class this week one of the other trainees decided to teach the word "bullshit"to one of our LCFs (language instructors). He asked how to spell it and wrote it down on a peice of paper. The next day he walked into seminar day with an official peace corps folder that had "BULLSHIT" written across the bottom in large black sharpied letters. I laughed...it's the little things.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

This last week was practicum. An experience I dreaded, hated, and am glad I was forced to have. As many of you may know, I am not particularly excited about any activity which requires that I stand in front of large groups of people. Practicum required that I stand in front of and teach English to a group of 40 Cambodian students who probably understood little if any of what I said.

The first morning I couldn’t eat. The second morning I couldn’t eat and I may have called my dad crying, saying something to the effect of “I hate this and I don’t want to do it...” I got a pep talk which consisted of the sentiment “suck it up it’s good for you…” more or less (put a little more delicately of course). I am glad to report that I did in fact suck it up, and it was good for me. By the fourth day I was eating breakfast, and by the last day I was actually enjoying myself a little.

We had all heard from k2 volunteers that we would more than likely start getting text messages from our students who would someone get our phone numbers. I didn't think this would happen to me, but alas, it did. The other night I recieved my first; it went a little something like this "Hi teacher! How r u? This night good dream. Thank for teach me for one week. I want to study with you for along time. Good night. Sweet dream!" Had this been from a male student I might have been a bit sketched out, but it was from one of my female students who also lives with one of the married k3 couples. They had inadvertantly supplied her with my phone number but I thought it was funny. (some of the other volunteers were less amused...)

I suppose I will leave you with a list I have been compiling of things that would be "deal breakers" in the States but have a certain "I feel you brother" quality in Cambodia:

1) Excessive backsweat not associated with exercise
2) Accidentally leaving an unemptied chamber pot in your room for multiple days
3) Discussing your relative ability, inability, or regularity of certain bodily functions
4) Not using toilet paper
5) using various recepticles for bathroom purposes that were never intended for bathroom purposes

There are certainly more but I will save those for another day. This coming week we will be in Phnom Penh, finding out our permanent placements, and visiting our permanent placement, so I am sure I will have pleantly of things to report this time next week.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Kampuchea Adventure

This past week we went on what they call "Kampuchea Adventure" where 2-3 of the PCTs (peace corps trainees)go to visit a K2 volunteer at their site. I went with two girls, Kellee (from Olympia also!) and Lisa, to visit a volunteer named Lauren in Dangtung villiage in Kampot province. It was great to not only get to spend a couple of days with someone who has already gone through what we are experiencing now, but also to see what kinds of things are being done at permanent sites. Lauren is really well integrated in her community, everyone knows her, and she speaks Khmer fluently. She is currently working an a womens leadership project and it was great to see how she has networked to make that happen. I had a few favorite parts of the weekend.

1) We had 3 bikes for 4 people and as the smallest person I got to ride on the back of Lisa's bike side saddle. It was not that strange of a sight for people around here who will often ride two or 3 to a bike...but for us it was hilarious.

2) The used clothing section at local markets. The women here more often than not, when not working, wear what I like to call glorified pajamas. They are crop pants generally with a button down shirt in a matching ridiculous print. I found a pair of said pants with smiling happy French vegetables. And I bought them. I intend to wear them often.

3) We were able to go into Kampot provintial town with our K2 and took a 12 seater van there. BY the time we arrived in Kampot there were 34 people in the van, 28 inside and 6 on top. It was horribly uncomfortable but it was hard not to laugh at the situation is we are being smashed by Cambodian grandmas falling asleep on us.

It was just nice to spend a few days visiting a real site so I could start getting an idea of how life will be and the kinds of projects I might be able to pursue.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Never Lie to a Khmer Woman!

Last sunday, I had one of my most amazing experiences yet. I returned from Takeo in the late afternoon and had plans to do a little reading in a hamock under my house. These plans were quickly interrupted by my host sister asking me to go with her to meet my host grandmother. Truthfully I didn't want to go, I wanted to relax on my day off, but I went anyway and I am glad I did. I followed my host mother and sister on a little path through wooded areas and rice paddies and eventually arrived at the house of my new Cambodian grandmother. She immediately signaled for me to come and sit by her and I couldn't help but think that I had never seen someone so old. She put her arms around me and began talking to me and very rapid fire Khmer while patting my shoulder. She then began force feeding me that rice my host mother had brought for her. It was some kind of dessert with sugar and coconut in it. Anyway...as we sat there my host sister began trying to translate what she could: she told me that she wanted me to go back to America at the end of my service and tell my family that I have a Cambodian grandmother who is 100 years old. It is hard for me to imagine the things that have been experienced by anyone that old but it is particularly astounding in a country like this where the population of people over 75 is nearly obsolete. She proceded to tell me that she hopes I live to be 100 and have a very happy life because I am family now. I feel so undeserving of her well wishes and warm welcoming but simultaneously blessed by having met her.

We have had no shortage of amusing experiences and funny stories about what we have all done to cope with new living conditions. My favorite comes from a girl in my language group who can't use the bathroom (like many of us) at night...the other morning she had to go before her host family was up to unlock the bathroom so she peed in a plastic bag and dumped it over her balcony. There are so many t hings that are acceptable here that would never be acceptable at home. I learned an important lesson the other night. My host aunt asked me why I am slim and she is not...and I said exercise because I didn't know how to say "I have a fast metabolism" in Khmer. Most of you know that this was a lie, I do no exercise. In fact I hate exercising, particularly the kind of exercise possible here. But my host aunt took me at my word and wanted to leave right then and there to go running. I had to pull all kinds of excuses out as to why I couldn't. So the lesson, never lie to a Khmer woman.

Today we all divided into small groups and went on a field trip. My group went on a boat trip to Phnom Da, the site of some old temple ruins. It was a great afternoon/morning. I love boats and when we got there we were swarmed by local children who gave me flowers and pretty much just provided us with ample entertainment.

My khmer is far from where it needs to be but I am learning...slowly. Unfortunately my host sister, who is one of the only people who could understand my khmer, left for Phnom Penh to look for work. I will miss her a lot! On another note, if anyone has a hankering to send me something in the mail...I want nailpolish. I didn't bring any because I thought it would be too diva-ish...but now I want it!!!!

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Introduction to Traing

After being showered with flowers and water amidst the indecipherable chants of monks (during the welcome ceremony) I met my host sister Tida (Da for short), in what may have been the single most awkward experience of my life. I might be exaggerating a little about that, but still...pretty awkward.

Most of the other volunteers had host parents to pick them up, eager to mother them as mothers do, but not me. I was greeted by my 21 year old host sister who was almost as uncomfortable as I was! The "what on earth am I doing here" thoughts definitely dominated for a little while. Now, however, I am finding daily reminders of why I am here and how blessed I am to have this experience.

I live with my sister Da and host mother (65) but extended family lives behind us and visit often. I have host neices and nephews as well as a host brother, all of whome speak a little english. This has certainly helped me with my Khmer. We live in a traditional wooden Kmer house one stilts with slat floors and an outdoor bathroom. THe bathroom has been the most difficult but I am getting used to it. It is true what they say...they really don't use toilet paper....and its been....fun... haha.

The food is awesome. Lots of rice and noodles and meat :) Veggies too but I can get away with eating fairly few. My host mom feeds me way too much. At dinner and lunch each day she repeatedly says "niam tran tran!" Eat MORE MORE! She tells me that I am slim (skome) and I need to eat more so I will be fat (taut) like my sister Da. Who isn't fat, for the record. Yesterday I ate frog for lunch which was about as adventurous as I have gotten. I have tried many new things, many of which I love. My favorite thing right now is to lay in the hamock after lunch drinking a coconut (that my mom chopped off a tree with a machette) and eating mangos. Not a bad life :)

Our days are spent in language class, meal times with family, and trainings at the school. They keep us very busy and I am already excited for when training is over and I can make my own routine.

Those of you who know me well will be surprised to know that I have been up by 6am or earlier and I am loving it. WHAT!? I am sure the months to come will have some lows and there will be times where I again question by dcision to be here, but I am confident that I am where I am supposed to be and have been, thus far, reminded daily.